Saturday, April 26, 2008

 

Day 17 Saturday April 26

NO TRAVEL DAY

Tlacotalpan, Mexico

Temp: 38 degrees C

Hazy & Hot

We loved it here so much we decided to stay another day! Took advantage of the one local internet café to bring the blog up to date and upload the pictures in our FACEBOOK photo albums.

Then off to dinner and beers….

There is a concert by local musicians in the park tonight to celebrate Seniors…glad I could make it. Sue says we’re DEFINATELY going!

We met Carlos, the guitarist, this afternoon and he invited me to play mandolin with him but mine is at home, may be able to borrow one tonight though??

The zocallo is alive with festivities tonight, it is the coronation of this year’s king and queen of seniors and all the city honorables were in attendance as well as most of the populace, newborns to the most elderly, a major family celebration accompanied by the full gamut of street vendors, musicians, and fanfare.

Last years king and queen were led in the parade by a large drum and brass group and followed by the city officials, the first and second princess and the “Ladies in waiting” , matronly seniors, one from each of the surrounding districts of the city (from what I could decipher), and finally, the new king and queen awaiting coronation.

The farewell to the past king and queen and the coronation of the new was attended to with much enthusiasm and respect, and all of it done in a light hearted yet dignified quasi carnival atmosphere.

The new monarchy was serenaded by local music students organized by Carlos, and followed by a female singer of local repute, accompanied by a senior’s salsa group who were very good, then several solos by a baritone singer of great Mexican renown. Free coke was passed out to all in attendance, and much appreciated!

Dancing in the street with my Susie to a salsa beat!

Next off to a late supper (Mexicans tend to have supper after nine in the evening) beside the square at outside tables below our hotel room’s balcony… the Torte Loca I highly recommend, accompanied with a really good ice cold “Sol” (a good beer)…..actually I had four……..

By the time we were finishing our meal I could hear a Son group starting up on the other side of the Zocallo, went to check it out, and sure enough a group of seven or eight local musicians from teens to seniors were striking up a strong Son beat accompanied with a staccato tap dancing in a quasi-flamenco/Son fusion, with the occasional Passa Doblé danced by couples taking turns and including three very little girls around the age of four or five who were terminally cute (and good!).

The instruments were all acoustic, all locally made by the renown luthier, Rafael Figueroa Alavés ; five string guitarras, five string Requintos, eight string Jaranas, a contra-bass, and a donkey jaw-bone played in the style of a Cuban maréquino! What an incredible mix of very accomplished musicians. Oh, and did I mention “no cover charge!” Feel free to jump right in and participate! People stepping in from the square to join the dancers and tap out an accompaniment to the music – no drums required.

Partick, you should have been with us !! we miss you...

Hung out with some of the guys in the band later and checked out the instruments. They are all fully carved out of one piece of large mahogany, sides, curved back and neck are all one piece! The top, or sound board is the only piece that is made separate and attached! Amazing work!

We’re planning to go to Catemaco tomorrow.


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